Candela Tapas Lounge adds modern flair to Hanover dining scene
I have bemoaned the lack of a tapas restaurant since I arrived in Hanover last year. Introduced in Spain over 200 years ago to increase bars’ alcohol sales, the small appetizers have recently gained stateside popularity. Candela Tapas Lounge, which opened on June 11, is a welcome addition to the Hanover restaurant scene and offers a stylish change in a town characterized by limited dining options.
Located on 15 Lebanon Street, the former location of Rosey Jekes’s basement cafe, Candela focuses on providing simple food and good drinks. Restaurant owner James Van Kirk said he created a simple menu so as to emphasize the purpose of tapas — bringing people together.
Light dishes shift diners’ focus from food to conversation, enabling tapas restaurants to create a warmer dining experience. Candela’s low ceilings and wooden décor lend an intimacy to the meal while retaining the modernity of a space that caters to a younger crowd. The owner and staff are friendly and conversational, contributing to the restaurant’s upscale-yet-casual ambiance.
The menu is simple, serving tablas and tapas, as well as a few large dishes and desserts. Given the portion sizes, prices are somewhat high, but they can be justified given the restaurant’s location and the lack of comparable alternatives in the area. Candela’s drink lineup hovers in the $9 range, with a number of cocktail, vodka, beer and rum offerings.
For a restaurant focusing on tapas, however, Candela’s selection was sparse. The tapas dining style typically encourages experimentation—the large variation of dishes makes up for the small portions. Yet with only 13 tapas choices on its menu, I could see myself quickly exhausting the options. Its existing offerings are modern interpretations of classic Spanish dishes, but Candela could easily expand its menu to accommodate more staples, like olives and seafood.
That being said, I enjoyed most of Candela’s tapas, characterized by intricate descriptions and lists of gourmet ingredients. Each choice was fresh, flavorful and presented well. While some dishes were not especially memorable, every menu item still had its merits. The Vieiras and the Ensalada Candela were particularly impressive, thanks to strong, well-balanced flavors. Ultimately, the Candela Tapas Lounge has a lot of promise and deserves a visit — if not many.
A Selection of Plates
Butifarra - $10
Spanish-Moroccan sausage wrapped in puff pastry with a pineapple chili flakes marmalade.
A set of glorified meatballs comes covered in an unexpectedly complex marmalade. Distinct layers of flavor distinguish the sweet and sour sauce.
Vieiras – $13
Scallops wrapped in Serrano ham with leek beurre blanc and a membrillo balsamic reduction.
This dish balances a variety of textures, flavors and visuals. Each component is prepared well and complements the other flavors. The two sauces—balsamic reduction and beurre blanc (French for white butter)—are divine. Dip into them separately with your fork, then taste together. The mixture is creamy but tangy, smooth but not one-dimensional. It’s a worthy complement to the scallops.
My qualm? You want more too soon. And at $13 for two scallops, this isn’t the most budget-friendly option.
Mofonguitos – $9
Fried plantain cups and “Ropa Vieja” braised and shredded flank steak with a roasted tomato creole sauce and Ajili Mojili.
Given the description, I was expecting something more avant-garde, at least in appearance, if not taste. Both disappointed. The Mofonguitos’ roasted tomato sauce falls flat. The topping, however, is crisp, and the flavors carry well.
Ensalada Candela – $8
Arugula, grilled peaches, Valdeon cheese and roasted almonds with a honey pepper guava vinaigrette.
The salad is superb. With multiple flavors and textures at play, this is one charismatic dish.
Albondigas a la Carmen – $9
Asturian-style meatballs with Romesco sauce, Valdeon blue cheese foam and sliced crostini.
A solid plate that is memorable more for its individual components than its overall flavor. The meatballs are perfectly cooked and seasoned, the crostini crisp and buttery.The Valdeon cheese, however, is the standout. It melts, rather than crumbles, into a powerful creamy mess that distinguishes it from other types of blue cheese.
Flan de Guayaba y Queso – $6.50
Guava and cheese flan with almond tuile and vanilla Chantilly cream.
As a self-professed flan addict, I love this dish. The fruity notes distinguish it from a typical flan, and the hard caramel top evokes memories of all the lovely creme brulee I have consumed in stressful times. A disclaimer though — flan is still flan, and haters should stay away. More for me!