After a few years at the Canoe Club, the owners of Elixir first took their talents to Maine and opened a French bistro before bringing the small-plate concept to the Upper Valley. Elixir Restaurant and Lounge opened earlier this year with the aim of combining artful, local food with New England musicians.
Housed in a converted warehouse, Elixir successfully captures the sleek, exposed-beam feel that has been associated with gentrified areas of urban renewal for the past few years. Local photographs adorn the walls, perhaps a carryover from the connected art and antiques store. In one corner, a woman taps away at a keyboard, bringing the sound of Miles Davis to the diners. In a crowd of 30, we spot two berets -- a fashion statement that clearly indicates creative economic revitalization.
The menu contains a mixture of small plates that range from $5 to $14, and satays that average $9. Elixir also offers a full martini menu and specialty mojitos. But watch out! The urban escape ambiance extends to include drinks as well; the $10 martinis rival the cost of a plate of food.
Elixir's dishes are named as creatively as the food they represent: "Mary's Little Lambs" describes savory chops, "Love Me Tender" titles a tenderloin, and "Spears of Ecstasy" reveals itself to be a deconstructed pasta and asparagus. Some dishes, like Kobe beef sliders, or one night's special of seared foie gras toasts, add a little nouvelle to the cuisine. Other dishes are clearly more locally inspired, such as "Hail for the Quail," a Cavendish, Vt. stuffed quail layered with complex seasonal flavors, including a smattering of apples, apricots and chestnuts.
Elixir's forte lies in the restaurant's presentation -- eclectic, asymmetrical platters and upscale plating give an added panache to the table aesthetic. Their interesting and creative combinations also provide a welcome reprieve from ordinary pub fare.
Starting with "Robb's Original Fries" gave us a moment of deja vu; the accompanying garlic aoli was trademark Canoe Club. This tasty bit of love and theft, however, drew no judgment on our end, and we gladly munched the familiar (and nearly flawless) starter.
The pork loin satays were nicely plated and served with mashed sweet potatoes with honey butter, sweet chutney and pistachios crumbled on top. The marinade and accompanying sauce kept the pork from being too dry.
The "Apple of My Eye" chicken sausage and cabbage was a healthy take on the original bratwurst and sauerkraut combination, though was a bit shy on flavor for our palates.
A second visit treated us to a surprisingly delicate pumpkin and butternut squash bisque. Accented by spiced creme fraiche, roasted pumpkin seeds and a drizzle of maple syrup, the soup was a decadent selection. Its sweet overtones would have even made it an appropriate dessert. Equally elaborate and as thoughtfully prepared, the "Just Beet It" salad came mounted high with yellow and heirloom beets and fresh, creamy goat cheese. The greens in this stacked platter were almost decorative and took second fiddle to the more lavish of the salad's stars.
Unfortunately, there is no greater boon to good dining than uneven service. On one visit, a diner commented that it was "the oddest dining experience [she had] ever had." After a 15-minute wait, the waiter skipped orders and generally neglected the table. We were unimpressed when a soda that was called to the staff's attention as flat was nonetheless still included on the tab. On a second trip, however, Elixir shone with an attentive wait staff who proved to be patient, well versed and knowledgeable about the menu and our selections.
Check, Please: Throw on your beret and wander over to Vermont for some live music and well-presented food. Small plates and satays lend themselves to sharing, so make sure your company has good manners. If you are looking for attractive food in an atmosphere that reminds diners of a slightly larger town than White River, Elixir is sure to suit.
