"Wait, who is the chef again?" one of our companions teased. "Chef Giovanni Leopardi," our waitress cooed helpfully as she sailed past. Considering the enthusiasm and sheer frequency with which our host inserted the head chef de cuisine and proprietor into tableside conversation, it seemed as though we were in the presence of greatness.
Apparently, it's lonely at the top for culinary geniuses; on the night we chose to try Carpaccio, we were the restaurant's sole occupants.
Carpaccio's cozy dining room, located in the Hanover Park complex on Lebanon Street, glints invitingly from its basement nook. Cream colored walls set with expressionist paintings and elegant place-settings are reminiscent of the typical in-house establishment of an upscale hotel. The toned-down decor, however, does create a certain ambience (or was that just the Wedgwood flatware?) that thankfully obliterates any reminder that this Italian enclave is just adjacent to the Orient.
Despite unlimited seating options, we were ushered to a table near a swinging door and an unsightly neon EXIT sign that we hoped concealed the kitchen. The hostess-turned-server took no notice, but rather regaled us with a detailed narrative that praised both the revered Leopardi and the concept for his menu.
If we had a nickel for every time the waitress mentioned Chef Leopardi, we would have been able to afford the entree prices. While Carpaccio's menu is certainly extensive, it does read a bit ambitiously. Appetizers range from a smaller portion of the house-made pastas to salads to a special carpaccio selection. Any urge to sample the signature dishes was erased after the server shared with our party her personal aversion to raw meat. Entrees are comprised of imaginative pasta combinations (albeit with full portion prices to match) as well as eclectic surf-and-turf selections.
Our server also announced the specials with pride, turning our attention to the daily fish special flown in from Hawaii. This dish seemed a bit out of place, given the menu's noted support of local products.
To be fair, it would be difficult for the chef to meet the expectations raised by the service. When our plate did arrive, however, we found that Leopardi served us a whole lot of hype.
A generously portioned appetizer, the Parma ham was delightfully salty and far from fatty -- a perfect combination. Unfortunately, despite being served with a smattering of Parmesan and Balsalmic, the accompanying baby arugla were unforgivably dry. Worse, the other salad entree we ordered came drenched in dressing to the point of being inedible. Fortunately, the locally produced goat cheese rounds that composed the heart of the Tomini di Capra in Salsa Verde salad were creamy, fresh, and complimented by the sweetly accented green salsa.
On to entrees. A combination of diced tomato, smoked mozzarella, asparagus and garlic, the tagliarini pasta sounded like a light and fresh vegetarian-friendly option. The first few bites, however, confused the palate and left our dining party with the same bewildering aftertaste: hot dogs?! Given the absence of meat in the dish, the smoked mozzarella was the likely culprit of this flavor confusion.
The gnocchi, smothered in an infused rosemary tomato sauce, were gummy and a bit leaden. The sauce, despite its strong herbed accents, remained the dish's saving grace.
The best by far was the homemade spinach ravioli. Stuffed liberally with buffalo mozzerella and topped in a zesty, chunky eggplant tomato sauce, the raviolis were sinfully savory and an overall treat.
Check, Please! Too full for dessert, we left content even with the expected dent in our wallets. Carpaccio's savory selections are an upscale answer to Italian dining in Hanover. While the choices can be hit or miss, we do recommend ordering the more affordable yet still generous appetizer portions. With both exotic platters and more familiar dishes, you're sure to find something to please every member of your dining party. Carpaccio is a now-and-then restaurant that's ideal for special occasions.
