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The Dartmouth
November 29, 2024 | Latest Issue
The Dartmouth

THE DISH: Diners are Gorges

A little feel-good food may convince you that grease and mayonnaise can cure all ills. In search of such soulful satisfaction, we made a jaunt over to Quechee, Vt., home of such wonders as "the most spectacular river gorge in Vermont," the Cabot cheese factory shop and the miniature cows at the Fool on the Hill.

Only a few yards from the gorge, Dana's By The Gorge sits as a relic of seasonality and a reminder of Vermont's booming tourist industry. In mid-October, the restaurant will shut its doors and shutter its windows until spring. What this means to you: go this week, or else try to go, stare through the darkened windows and end up at the Farmer's Diner; it's a win-win.

After we were seated, we noticed an entire table full of red-hatted women sitting at a long table above us. "The Price is Right" host Bob Barker used to refer to the women in the Red Hat Society, a social organization comprised of fun-loving females over 50, as "a group of women who love to drink." The women's presence added to the perception that we had stolen away to a summer camp dining room for adults, complete with country decor and cole slaw.

An hour after the breakfast cutoff time of 11:15, seeing the offering of "Fried Dough" on the morning half of the menu was enough to make us vow to come back for what promises to be an excellent way to start the day. Our waiter promptly noticed our roving eye and told us to keep it to the lunch menu, so we complied, reading about an array of comfort-inspired dishes like the Chicken Picnic, the Gorgeous Ruben, and the Grilled Vermont Cheddar and Tomato.

The Dana Burger, which can be ordered as a veggie burger, alpine style or topped with Dana's signature sauteed onions, Vermont cheddar and grilled mushrooms, was delightfully heart-stopping. Indeed, the usually-more-health-conscious option was too good to be true. Upon closer inspection, it seemed that the veggie burger had benefited from some quality time in the fryer.

The hamburger steak at Dana's unfortunately did not show itself to be much more than a bun-free patty topped in onions and mushrooms. However, in this form, the angus beef plate still drew attention as an entree sure to deliver. To truly enjoy this dish, the diner needs to first smother it in the rich, dark gravy that comes on the side. Our vegetarian found it to be particularly good and then promptly said Hail Marys.

While we could not bring ourselves to try the "Gorge by the Gorge" brownie or homemade sorbet the dessert menu, we did catch a sneak peak at some of the nearby tables. The thought of these delectable treats will haunt us until spring!

Check, please: Go to Dana's, preferably tomorrow, because otherwise you will be left out in the cold. Breakfast may be Dana's specialty, but lunch stands out with mid-day classics and a strong offering of desserts. And do order a side of onion rings -- they go with everything.


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