With temperatures mounting, it seems that spring has finally arrived. While some are starting to break out the seersucker, in this week's column, we are longing for a change in taste -- for spring (and, dare we say it, early summer) delectables!
Eager to leave behind last season's palate, we decided we wanted ice cream, watermelon wedges, corn on the cob or anything outside and grilled. Big Fatty's, located across the river in Hartford, Vt., captures the essence of warmer weather with its focus on Southern food: good old-fashioned barbecue.
A name like Big Fatty's could only work for barbecue, a genre that embraces big, saucy servings of meat and vegetable sides that are disguised and enriched with rich, meaty flavors. The closest barbecue joint we have been able to find, Big Fatty's is only a 10 minute drive and is open six days a week. Vegetarians rest easy; Mondays can be meat-free.
The origins of this fine culinary tradition have been traced back to Caribbean cooking methods, French pirates and cowboys, though one cannot argue that this style of cooking meat has become distinctly American. Big Fatty's obviously gives credit to the South for its inspiration, given its slogan, "Put some South in your Mouth!"
The restaurant caters almost exclusively to carnivores, so be prepared to eat only French fries and coleslaw if you have given up on munching things that move (yes, there is even meat in the hush puppies).
Big Fatty's uses a pit cooking method for its barbecue, a process that entails hours and hours of cooking at low temperatures. The Texas brisket, which is only served on Wednesdays due to the amount of time that goes into its preparation, requires 20 hours in the cooker. The ribs, chicken and pulled pork also take hours of cooking over hickory to give them their extra moist, rich flavor.
Most of our lunch party ordered pulled pork sandwiches. At Big Fatty's, you certainly get plenty of meat for your money. The "Little Piggy" sandwich was overly demure. In fact, after eating a full sandwich, there was still enough pork left over to make another two sandwiches the next day. The amount of meat with the regular-sized pulled pork sandwich was easily enough for four "regular" sandwiches -- the amount of meat threatened to overtake not only the bun, but the plate and sides too. The pulled chicken sandwich was also flavorful, and not dried out like many other chicken-barbecues.
Be sure to add sauce to your liking. More than just a condiment, Big Fatty's sauce is thick but sweet, with a slight kick. Better yet, you can even buy your own bottle.
Most plates come complemented with standard side fare. While the coleslaw didn't stray from expectation, the sweet potato fries were a table favorite. Made to order and cut thin, the fries came out warm and seasoned with coarse salt. The five-bean baked beans were also a pleaser, thanks to their unique smokey sweetness, which added another appreciated layer of complexity to the commonly tame preparation.
Aside from looking a bit like fried cornbread thumbs, the hush puppies were also unfortunately a little wet behind the ears. And by that, we mean too dry even despite the bacon-infused flavor. However, on the whole, Big Fatty's side dishes are perfectly placed accompaniments that don't steal the real show. They all work well with whichever hearty meat dish you choose.
Check, please!: Big Fatty's serves up Southern barbecue in cost-worthy portions. Flavorful sides may momentarily steal your attention, but the real draw here is the carefully cooked meat. Big Fatty's is a great place to bring friends, leave with leftovers and simply enjoy being carnivorous.
