Vermont usually summons stereotypical images of cows, maple syrup, glowing green mountains and liberals. Our recent foray into the Upper Valley's diner fare led us smack into the verdant peaks of New Hampshire's fair western cousin and did nothing to dispel this perception. We were drawn to the town of Bethel, Vt., which is most notably known for providing our nation's capital with its signature white granite.
One of Bethel's best kept secrets is the 40-year-old veritable Vermont institution, Eaton's Sugarhouse.
Just a stone's throw from dear old Dartmouth, Eaton's Sugarhouse is not easily overlooked; its impressive maple leaf-emblazoned sign is visible from the highway. The venue doubles as both a breakfast joint and a sugaring station complete with nationally renowned pancakes (seriously, just check their map of clientele!) and seasonal sugaring demonstrations.Both are not to be missed and thankfully, are offered year round.
The Sugarhouse's sheer enormity and cheeky country character elevate it above and beyond typical diner standards and make other standbys seem dismal and drab by comparison. The remodeled 19th century cider mill opens first to a strategically placed general store whose decorating scheme uncomfortably parallels that of Cracker Barrel. Ignore the homage to John Deere, but keep an eye out for free maple candy samples, homemade syrups, sodas and preserves.
The wood-paneled restaurant area overlooks neighboring fields. Artfully rustic, roughly cut chairs and tables lend an air of Vermont farm authenticity to the wonderfully bright and clean dining room.
Eaton's Sugarhouse may attract tourists, but it's no trap. Our waitress took one look at our midterm-weary faces and promptly offered us coffee and the menus. Cheerful and attentive, especially at eight in the morning, she was nothing short of a godsend. Even better, she knew all the regulars' orders by heart.
Eying nearby patrons' heaping plates of breakfast staples, we ordered several of the Sugarhouse's specialties. The exclamation, "I've never seen this many vegetables in a diner before," followed the first forkful of egg white omelette. Brimming with broccoli, tomatoes, peppers and onions, the plate-sized egg concoction tasted fresh and healthy. Other selections: a traditional ham and cheese that offers a bit more protein in the morning and the Western variety, dressed up with local salsa.
Oval-shape blueberry pancakes pop with flavor, as fresh blueberries take up every inch of the pancake's surface. Trying all the other varieties -- buttermilk, chocolate chip, raspberry chocolate chip, country grain, buckwheat, apple and spice, apple walnut raisin -- could fill up a term's worth of weekend trips and would be well worth it.
The country breakfast special provides the perfect balance of morning temptations without weighing you down. In addition to pancakes, a separate plate of bacon, toast and hash browns round off the quartet. The hash browns could be eaten alone as their own meal: the seasoned, fresh potatoes take on a sublime crispiness without filling your stomach with grease.
Belgian waffles come highly recommended, but if you are looking for something sweeter, try a homemade doughnut or a slice of their award-winning maple pecan pie. Homemade bread and biscuits are packaged to take home for breakfast the next day. Lunch is also available, with tempting country cooking options such as open-faced sandwiches served with mashed potatoes.
Check, please: Eaton's Sugarhouse is well-worth the short, scenic drive up 89. The self-proclaimed "Hope you're hungry" portions will help you start the day off right. Pancakes here are far more than a canvas for syrup, but with such good maple fixings without the usual extra fee, feel free to pour away!
