The only thing more contrived than vapid Hallmark holidays are getting to know-you-games. Spare me your two truths and a lie or any opportunity where I have to liken my personality to fauna or inspect myself for that share-worthy scar. The only question I can stand to answer tolerably is, if I could only pick one, which food would I choose to eat on a deserted island? My answer does not even warrant a pause: give me Korean or I'm going home.
Imagine the good fortune of finding myself stranded in the wiles of New Hampshire without having to pull a Piggy! Somehow, the third most homogenous state in the Union is not lacking in Seoul food. As the only culinary representation of Korean in the area, Yama Restaurant gracefully rises to the occasion. West Lebanon's Yama Restaurant serves an artful collaboration of Korean and Japanese favorites and deserves its well-received reputation.
While this column tries to explore less chartered territory, and Yama is not exactly an unfamiliar locale for Dartmouth students, credit must be given where credit is due. This week's The Dish salutes an old standby and ostensibly one of the Upper Valley's best.
Leaving appropriate breathing room from the majority of West Lebanon's epileptic display of consumerism, Yama Restaurant is tucked away off Route 10 just minutes from Hanover. The dining room, a cross between minimalism and cafeteria retro, comes across as more shabby than chic. Thankfully, the menu strays far from the design scheme. Yama offers an extensive selection of appetizers, soups, salads, meat and vegetarian entrees, and a full sushi bar that spans both Korean and Japanese predilections.
Skip the tea that will unquestioningly accompany the meal. Yama's miso soup that comes in three different varieties will be a much better introduction. The classic bean paste soup stands out as the ultimate winter comfort food, and Yama's version, delivered promptly and piping hot, will provoke a sigh of relief from the cold.
Yama's specialties are highlighted for a reason! The house sushi rolls revel in combinations that are hard to resist. Topped with a creamy yet spicy "special" sauce, the noteworthy Yama and Lebanon rolls are fried and are overall crowd pleasers. More classic options, nigiri and sashimi, are also available, and the caterpillar maki (eel, cucumber, avacado) is particularly good.
Yama's other achievement is their bibimbab. This gem of globalization, Korean coup d'etat and my personal favorite main course rice dish is a triumph of meat or tofu, egg, and vegetables in a biting chili sauce. Feel like splurging? The savory selection can be cooked in an earthenware pot right at the table and is worth the extra heat.
If you have a bus to catch, may I recommend China buffet? The service at Yama, although not always punctual, is friendly and accommodating, and especially effusive to regulars. The hospitable array of banchan or side dishes delivered while you wait helps soften those hunger pangs as well!
Check Please: Don't feel deserted -- four years in the woods doesn't have to be bland! Yama puts Soonja to shame with a full gamut affair of Korean and Japanese delights. Try house specialty sushi roles, noodle dishes and classic Korean barbeque, all under one roof. Did I mention this off-campus staple is favorite of Food Court Larry? Yama is open for both lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
