When William Jennings Bryan endorsed a hotly contested new silver currency in 1896, just across the pond, the British had no problem forgoing the gold standard -- of breakfast. That same year, which marked Bryan's populist defeat, a wildly popular British magazine extolled the concept of "brunch," placing it squarely in the common English vernacular.
To the joy of late risers, early imbibers and college students everywhere, brunch, a happy hybrid of breakfast and lunch, has come a long way since its inception well over a century ago. Extending my sincerest apologies to Home Plate, I will venture that no establishment has celebrated this liberating gastronomical phenomenon more delectably than the New Hampshire's very own Home Hill Inn. However, in the same vein as most corporate recruiting firms, Home Hill ignored my persistent attempts at communication. Further investigation revealed that the Inn has closed!
The Inn's restaurant, a bastion of gourmet excellence, rendered a flawless assortment of traditional brunch staples and classic French favorites in a coiffed yet cozy interior. Although brunch options abound in the Upper Valley, could anywhere else take its place?
No option is more tempting than White River Junction's Como Va. An upscale Italian restaurant by night, Como Va's real cache is its weekend lunch and brunch menu. In addition to a diverse spread of breakfast treats, fresh salads, soups and sandwiches, the restaurant boasts seasonal house specialties, including both sweet and savory crepes.
Como Va occupies prime real estate on Main Street in White River Junction. Aside from the view of not-yet-obsolete train tracks, my companions and I were pleasantly surprised by the sunny, casual dining room. At first glance, the menu looked equally promising: a complete array of appetizers, breakfast entrees and lunch specials. When considered together, however, the assortment seemed too far-reaching and at points, downright bizarre, even for brunch. This past week, Como Va offered sauteed mussels in the same breath as a fresh fruit and berry platter that was alarmingly overpriced at $7. While I've never shied from gastronomical risk-taking, I balked at the restaurant's suggestion that I add avocado or olives to my omelette.
After much debate, our table decided on a spinach and mushroom crepe in a bechamel sauce and served with tomato ragu, the house specialty, a smoked salmon salad and a less daring smoked bacon and goat cheese omelette.
The food arrived promptly, and the servings were more than fair. Admirably presented, the salad featured a generous heaping of thickly cut smoked salmon. Unfortunately, this house specialty salad was anchored by a less prized potato pancake, which tasted more leaden than latke. The crepe, a savory combination of vegetables and cream, could have benefited from another shake of salt, but was overall rich and immensely satisfying.
The real winner was the made-to-order omelette that appeared with peppery home fries and homemade whole wheat toast. Packed with a precise measure of ingredients, the omelette reveled a complimentary combination of bacon and goat cheese and did not last long!
Although Como Va verily lacks the fluidity and polish of the Home Hill Inn, what the restaurant is missing in finesse it gains in sheer proximity to Dartmouth. From Main Street to Main Street, the trip takes about ten minutes.
Check, Please! Forget the gold, Go for the bold! Como Va offers an eclectic brunch menu every weekend from 11-2 just minutes away in White River. Skip the specials, but a taste of their sweet crepes and savory omelettes could be worth the splurge.
