Winter at Dartmouth is a time to indulge in creature comforts. There is no better way to enjoy this time of year than celebrating what the Upper Valley does best: comfort food.
Diners tend to run a dime-a-dozen, but the Farmer's Diner in Quechee, Vt. stands solidly apart from the crowd. The local diner is in fact just that. Relying almost exclusively on nearby Vermont and New Hampshire farms for its ingredients, the Farmer's Diner is actively attempting to transform environmental, agricultural, and economic standards for the restaurant business. Intrigued by the Diner's common sense philosophy, I went to see for myself just how tasty political correctness can be.
The Farmer's Diner is housed in an admirably refurbished 1947 Worcester Dining Car in the Quechee Gorge complex just off Route 4. Upon our arrival, my companions and I were pleasantly surprised to find that the Diner offers two distinct settings: a classically casual red-booth diner, as well as a more refined sit-down dining room. We chose the more informal option, a sleek wood and chrome space. The Farmer's Diner is no stranger to detail, and we appreciated the thoughtful touches in our surroundings. Homey red-checked curtains match the hue of the rosy seats. Water is served in Mason jars, which combined with the imaginative use of colorful bandanas for napkins, add a playful element to the atmosphere. In setting alone, the Farmer's Diner soars high beyond that of a typical diner. Even more appealing, we were thrilled to learn that the whole restaurant is wireless.
Skeptics typically disparage eating locally, and therefore seasonally, as unbearably bland. Diets dependent on whatever nearby farms make available conjure images of never-ending turnip parades reminiscent of Communist Eastern Europe. However, a glimpse at the Farmer's Diner's full-gamut fare is enough dispel most criticism. With the choice of substantive dinner entrees to burgers and sandwiches to an all-day barrage of breakfast selections, we reluctantly settled on two different sandwiches, a cheeseburger, a full vegan breakfast, and one of the weekly specials, a widely touted Mac and Cheese.
The milkshakes were first to arrive. The Farmer's Diner offers a broad range of flavors from traditional vanilla to seasonal pumpkin. We sipped a classic chocolate, before fighting for more slurps of an orange Creamsicle flavor and the crowning glory, a decadent maple that could truly be the best for miles.
The rest of our food was soon to follow minus one order and a side, which our waitress, the can-quit-her-day-job EBA's heiress, had (apologetically) forgotten. Never mind some service glitches! The sandwiches were stacked with an almost formidable amount of meat so there was plenty to share. The Reuben emerged as the favorite thanks to a tangy sauerkraut that would have made any New York City Deli proud. Even better were the accompanying gourmet home-cut fries, which were dabbled with just the right amount of salt. They disappeared almost as fast as the breakfast hash browns that were crispy and peppered to perfection. The vegetarian breakfast, consisting of a vegetable tofu scramble and "sausage" patty (read: a lentil, soy, and barley combination) was delightfully hearty and even won the approval of begrudging carnivores. However, the vegetarian sausage was laced with too much rosemary, which overpowered the rest of the elements. The specialty, Cabot-infused Mac and Cheese, also fell short. While initially emerging sinfully creamy, as we neared the bottom we realized why -- it was soaking in melted butter.
The Farmer's Diner's shortcomings, however, are redeemed by the enthusiasm of the wait staff. Glowing with good-natured hospitality and brimming with suggestions, the wait staff are well-versed in information regarding the local food movement and the Farmer's Diner's mission. One waiter even allowed us to sample still-marinating locally-grown homemade pickles. The promise of similarly prepared local sauerkraut has us salivating for future visits.
On our way out, the same waiter dispensed enough free Hush Puppies coupons to last through graduation, but not before impressing upon us his credo: "Spread the gospel of local food!"
Amen.
Check Please! Why argue politics when the food tastes this good? Fresh weekly specials, a crowd-pleasing menu that is (count it!) vegan-, vegetarian- and carnivore-friendly combined with a knowledgeable wait staff in a sleek but cozy atmosphere, all make other local diners look hopelessly drab in comparison. So before you sprint for the Dick's House sunlamp, consider making a quick stop in Quechee, Vt. where the Farmer's Diner's "short order revolution" is sure to satisfy.
