White River Junction's rapid transformations call for an expansion of our dining options and a welcomed rejuvenation of our palates. Tucked away in the town's "art colony" -- a collection of small studios in a one-time bread factory, the Tip Top Cafe salutes history with another culinary pursuit. The restaurant effortlessly shifts from a casual cafe by day to trendy bistro by night, providing patrons with two ways to enjoy its American-inspired cuisine. Our first attempt to sit at a Tip Top table left us without so much as a bad taste in our mouth. Apparently Mondays in White River are the new DDS Saturdays: everything seems to be closed.
Undeterred, we returned to a bustling Tuesday night scene. Six empty tables curiously entailed a 10-minute wait. However, the service recovered as soon as we sat down and we were promptly greeted by an eager, if not irritatingly rehearsed, wait-staff. The delay in the much anticipated bread basket, afforded us prime opportunity to admire our surroundings. Awash in warm hues, the dining room parades a postmodern play on the authentic industrial background. Restored church pews flank two walls and floor to ceiling windows bring in ample natural light, heightening the thoughtfully conceived and appropriately sleek atmosphere. The addition of bedecking the walls with local art was well-intentioned, but the subject matter ranging from toothy portraits to photographs of glaring livestock crowded our party of three and was altogether disturbing. Thoughts of ordering beef within the stares of two vegetarians and a thirty six-inch model shot of a full-horned steer seemed downright sacrilegious for our omnivore.
We were thankfully distracted by the arrival of a crusty baguette and accompanying dipping sauce -- a well rounded parsley vinaigrette with a zippy garlic tang.
Noting that every other table had ordered the house french fries, we followed suit and soon understood the appetizer's acclaim. Paired with aioli, the fries came out perfectly hot, slightly crispy and lightly seasoned. Another starter, a fresh spinach salad complete with candied walnuts and Gorgonzola cheese was acutely harmonized with a sweet summer maple vinaigrette. Our third choice, their tomato basil bisque, topped with fresh Parmesan, provided a solid though somewhat lackluster introduction to the meal.
Each entre was distinct, well-proportioned and presented with gusto. The special of the night, a rosy grilled salmon on a smoky bed of almond and raisin couscous, stood out as the favorite. The one vegetarian option, an Indian infused platter of curried chickpeas and spinach muscled a weak punch, but its subtle flavor delivered a light and soothing main course crowd pleaser. Last but certainly not least, the summer pasta -- a piquant partnership of prosciutto, peas and leaks in a garlicky cream sauce -- sailed beyond satisfactory.
Although thoroughly satiated, we could not resist Tip Top's final and most brilliant showing. Chocolate reigns supreme in their desert selection, but we had no qualms about ordering both options. These two confections, a decadent, molten truffle cake and simple, but smooth chocolate pudding richly crowned our meal and provided the perfect parting note in the Tip Top production.
Check, Please: Practically a foolproof date venue, the Tip Top Cafe is neighbored by a paint-your-own pottery studio (Ladies' night is on Thursdays from 6 to 9 p.m. and Claymates' two-for-the-price-of-one date nights are every Friday). We love Tip Top's small, but sturdy menu and casual, funky atmosphere. Prices did not stray far from the moderate range, and entrees averaged around $15. Tip Top is available for both lunch and dinner and either way, be sure to save room for dessert!
