As dining options dwindle and temperatures boil, our palates ache for a little bit of spice in the everyday routine. We took a cue from the warmer weather and went in search of some hotter cuisine, stumbling upon Lebanon's Gusanoz Mexican Restaurant. Nothing says summer like cold beer and cheap Mexican food.
Locally owned, Gusanoz is a five-mile drive from campus, hidden in a shopping center at 422 Miracle Mile. The menu boasts the largest selection of Mexican beer in New Hampshire, with $2 beers from 3 to 5 p.m. weekdays; this is likely what attracted the man in the "I'M A DRUNK" shirt to the bar in the first place. Less-than-legal, the carnivorous half of this dining duo ordered up a Mexican Coke -- albeit not without a wistful glance at the mohawked bartender who slouched ready to serve up mojitos, sangria or one of the six kinds of margaritas on the menu.
The fresh basket of perfectly crisped chips and two kinds of authentic salsa provided a pleasant distraction away from the glowing assortment of religiously-infused and beer-inspired wall decor. While the accordion player serenaded us with classic Mexican favorites, we eagerly perused the rest of the menu.
The limited sampling of appetizers failed to tempt us, but we did indulge in their guacamole -- a precise balance of avocado and cilantro with a refreshing twist of lemon juice. Despite the house predilection toward surf or turf specialties, vegetarians were not forgotten. Our herbivore appreciated the diverse spread, including the option to convert most dishes into a more ethically-friendly format. After much debate, we settled on a Mexican favorite -- chicken mole, the ultimate vegetable triumvirate: a tamale, enchilada and chile relleo, and last but not least -- a classic shredded beef burrito -- the "Gusanoz Burrito Especial."
We hardly had time to admire the phosphorescent palm trees before our first and only course arrived promptly and piping hot. Mouths still ablaze from the tenacious salsa verde, we dove into our entrees, only to meet fire with fire.
Gusanoz's seems to subscribe to the one size fits all approach to spices, and disappointingly delivers all of its dishes in the same stinging one-two punch. The chicken mole, which turned out to be tough strips of breast meat in a traditional barbeque-like sauce, was redeemed by its accompanying authentic, airy and overall, excellent corn tortillas.
The vegetarian platter also remained hit-or-miss. While the tamale, although uncomfortably wedged as an afterthought between its neighboring components, nonetheless stood superior to the vegetable enchilada -- a soggy mess of creamed spinach and rubbery mushrooms.
The chile relleo retained its natural zest despite being clogged by an overload of cheese and emerged fairly satisfying.
Our third choice, the beef burrito clearly stood out as the winner with a huge dollop of their crowd-pleasing guac on top. Unfortunately, the entire set of dishes were accompanied by campfire style (read: just add water) refried beans and a congealed scoop of Spanish rice, the disconcerting color of blue-box macaroni and cheese.
The bill arrived as soon as we rested our forks as a gentle reminder that the kitchen was closing. Although we did not get to taste the recommended homemade flan, the entire staff rested their mops long enough to wish us goodnight. Perhaps next time we should arrive before 9 p.m., or go on a weekend for Saturday Salsa when the kitchen is open late.
Check, Please: Small, relaxed atmosphere with authentic grub, easy-going service and an even easier-to-stomach price tag. The whole meal (for three) did not set us back more than $35 with almost all entrees under $10 (unless you decide to get exorbitant and order the filet mignon). Don't bring your mom, but bring your I.D. for cheap beers and a hearty appetite for the quality appetizers.
